RESTAURANT REVIEW : LUPA, MANU CHANDRA’S LATEST VENTURE

LUPA, MANU CHANDRA’S LATEST VENTURE

As I walked through the gates of Manu Chandra’s LUPA, located amidst the din and bustle of Bengaluru’s iconic MG Road, I felt I had stepped into a Tuscan home. One of the things that caught my attention was the terracotta tiled roofs and the trickling of water from a few carved marble fountains against carefully curated ambient music, in the middle of a charming brick-lined courtyard. The Mediterranean-style plants in stone urns and the wrought-iron doors exude the ambience of a Tuscan comfortable home.

LUPA is the brainchild of renowned chef-restaurateur Manu Chandra and hospitality veteran Chetan Rampal. LUPA is Manu Chandru’s flagship restaurant. Chandra has handpicked most of the décor items from the markets during his jaunts to Italy. A beautiful interplay of a welcoming outdoor area, coupled with a rousing high-ceiling indoor dining area, the11,000 sq. ft restaurant and bar seats two hundred and twenty covers. I was overwhelmed by the art décor screens, rust coloured couches, low-hanging red lamps, and antique mirrors which dominate the dining space. 

Named after the mythological La Lupa, Italian for ‘the she-wolf’, who raised Romulus and Remus, the founders of the modern city of Rome, LUPA, imbibe her untameable spirit. It’s also an ode to Chandra’s love for all things Italian- history, food and wine. The she-wolf’s untameable character resonates with Manu Chandra.

The interiors are designed by Bangalore-based architecture firm WDA led by Jatin Hukkeri and the branding identity has been conceptualised by the creative studio Holy Duck. Meandering through, you find a two layered semi-private outdoor deck housing an interactive kitchen, pizzeria, and live grill reminiscent of a laid back, comfortable Tuscan country home.

Descending from the outside deck through a narrow winding staircase is the country’s first and a one-of-its-kind below-ground Wine Cellar. Around 12 ft underground is a stone-clad cellar, home to a curated list of nearly two thousand bottles of wine with an exclusive tasting zone, available only by prior appointment. There is also a min Gelato Lab that will churn out freshly-made gelatos, with seasoned fruits within minutes and a Salumeria serving freshly sliced hams, cured meats pastas, pickled vegetables and fresh cheeses made especially for LUPA.

The raised bar, perched at one corner of the restaurant, opens to an outside bar deck providing ample opportunity for guests to experience an exciting beverage program and interact with talented mixologists.  It has a pure brass counter – top, stained veneer, and a vintage mirror facade. The best vantage point of the restaurant is the private dining area on a mezzanine floor above the central dining room, flanked by two grand staircases.

With a warm and energetic vibe, LUPA’s bar is a great place for the finest crafted cocktails accompanied with an extensive and highly curated wine offering by leading wine experts and sommeliers. The selection of wines and spirits range from the finest international labels to Indian brands, offering something for everyone. Another coveted seating is the deck outside the bar.

But the experience at LUPA is not just confined to contemporary European food indulgences. LUPA’s bar is the perfect destination for drink aficionados who want to experience meticulous, masterful cocktails in a stirring atmosphere.

Signature cocktails include Lupa-tini made with house-made sous-vide Limoncello, Clarified Pina Colada – coconut fat washed and milk clarified rum with pineapple, and The Notorious F.I.G (with house-made fig jam infused bourbon, Campari, fresh lime, orange bitters, thyme, cinnamon) Sgroppino, a perfectly balanced cocktail with gin, vermouth, Prosecco and house-made pomegranate sorbets, made in the Gelato Lab in several cocktails.

While the menu changes with the seasons, some dishes to savour here include Roasted Trout-almond and garlic crusted trout, pan-seared, served with bathua and leeks puree and Almendra sauce. Special menus are crafted for guests looking for an absolutely exclusive experience.  

The idea of dining at LUPA is an engrossing affair, a culmination of multiple sensory experiences with epicurean innovations at its helm. The offering includes locally sourced Buratta cheese – dusted with spray-dried tomato powder, textures of tomatoes, baby arugula, pepitas, fennel, basil oil; Hamachi Crudo. Caesar Salad with Parmesan crisp which reminded me of Kerala Achappam, Moules -fritties – steamed green lip mussels with white shallots, garlic, chilli flakes served with French fries.

Stellar favourites are Corzetti Pasta, a unique stamped fresh pasta with a wild mushroom ragu topped with crispy garlic and toasted walnuts; Arroz De Pato – our version of Portuguese Duck Rice where the rice is cooked with aromatic duck stock, spices, cured duck breast and chorizo. The Pressed Half Brick Chicken and Pork Belly with smashed Pee Wee Potatoes, Herbed Vegetables, Green Apple and Celery Slaw, Mustard Mayo, Smoked Miso, Chilli, and Caramalized Pork are other favoured items on the menu.

The talented team of chefs churn up beautifully plated, reimagined dishes that include – Chicken Liver Pate with a hibiscus and raspberry gel, smoked sea salt flakes, chicken skin crisp, mustard cress and toasted bread.  Another signature dish is the Baked Salmon – salmon fillet encased with brioche dough, dill, and cream cheese mousse; buttermilk herb sauce topped with salmon skin furikake. Another must-try is the Salt-baked Lamb – Bannur trimmed lamb, salt-crust dough, slow-baked for 6 hours, spiced hummus, roasted baby potatoes, creamed spinach, and pita bread.

We rounded off our meal with a 24-layer Chocolate, thin moist layer of chocolate cake, gold dusted, served with Vanilla bean gelato and TIRAMASU served table side with Express Shot and Biscotti.

CONTENT AND PHOTOS BY SUSHEELA NAIR