HYDERABAD; WHERE HISTORY AND HI-TECH MAKE YOUR DAY

Founded in 1590 by Muhammed Quli the fourth Qutub Shahi king and the Qutub Shahi dynasty Hyderabad has a lustrous past as a regal entity and a glittering present as one of India’s formative IT hubs. It’s remarkable how the city has seamlessly amalgamated its past and present to serve up some of the most thrilling visitor experiences of India’s culture and heritage

No longer in the stranglehold of Mughal power with the death of emperor Aurangzeb in 1707 the Asaf Jah viceroys, serving as their watchdogs, felt enough was enough and pulled away to create their very own state and helmed it through subsequent nizams for over 224 years. 

The first arrow was shot by Mir Qamar-ud-din Khan Siddiqi Bayafandi who served as a General in the Mughal army and was raised to the post of viceroy of the Deccan on Aurangzeb’s death. Rebelling against emperor Muhammad Shah, Asaf Jah1, as he was titled by the emperor, set himself up as the Nizam of the independent successor state of Hyderabad, establishing a dynastic rule marked by seven nizams, which would last for over 200 years. The Nizams had inherited the state from the Mughals who had wrested Hyderabad state from the Qutub Shahis who ruled out of Golconda. Successive Nizams continued to amass huge fortunes despite the aggressive overtures from the French, the Marathas, and the British.

The Asaj Jahi rule ended with its merger in 1948 with the Indian Union after the country became free of British rule. Mir Osman Ali Khan who was deposed was the last official Nizam of Hyderabad at this time.

Hyderabad’s Nizams were legendary for their wealth and culture.  With an estimated net worth of over $200 billion the seventh and final Nizam, Mir Osman Ali Khan who ruled from 1911 to 1948 was considered to be one the world’s wealthiest men.   He had a private mint, a private treasury fattened by £100 million in gold and silver bullion, plus a further £400 million of jewels. As one of the highest-ranking princes in India, Mir Osman Ali Khan was amongst the privileged five to be entitled to a 21-gun salute.

Ah Golconda!
While watching the nightly Sound and Light Show at the Golconda Fort, the famous diamond mines of Golconda, the world’s only supplier of diamonds in the 18th century and the source for the famous Kohinoor Diamond and Jacob Diamond, will not be far from your mind! Amongst the lovely anecdotes of the seventh Nizam is that that even the paperweight on his desk was the 185-carat Jacob Diamond the fifth largest polished diamond in the world valued today at over $120 million.

Though the fantastic acoustics of the fort have been well documented, it’s hard not to recall how Emperor Aurangzeb, laid siege to the fort and how his army barreled through the Fateh Darwaza and plundered the legendary treasure of Hyderabad. Take a short walk at the base of the Fort where a serene garden complex houses the elegant tombs of the Qutub Shahi kings and their consorts.

Karwan
A small section of the historic precinct of Golconda, Karwan, the epicenter of the diamond and pearls trade, would be thronged with crowds. It was a veritable Tower of Bable, abuzz with traders and visitors from the ancient world congregating here to explore the fabulous goods on display. As the world’s only source for diamonds in the 18th century the Golconda region served as the global nucleus for skilled cutting, polishing, marketing, and export of diamonds at the time.

With the rapid development of the city Karwan has gotten pushed into the embrace of the main city. Visitors can wander around to explore some of the old buildings, caravanserais, temples, and mosques dating to the early Nizam era. A commercial hub even in the Qutub Shahi era in the 1500s and 1600s it was also reputed for excellent handlooms. You should sign up for the Karwan Heritage Walk for a more insightful experience of this historic area.

Charminar

Gazing down on the noisome traffic streaming past its flanks this iconic structure is one of the city’s most recognizable landmarks. Built in 1591 by Mohammed Qutub Shah, the Charminar, also finds fame as a popular cigarette brand, one purportedly much favoured by the seventh Nizam to promote the local industry where they were specially rolled in roasted tobacco!

THE PALACES

With the death of Mir Osman Ali Khan, Prince Mukarram Jah was crowned the eighth Nizam of Hyderabad in 1967.  But with the Indian government abolishing, princely titles, privileges, and privy purses, he chose to quit Hyderabad for a life in Australia. He paid a heavy price for leaving the management of his inheritance with people he thought were trustworthy.  His first wife Her Highness Princess Esra intervened and tried to bring some semblance of order to the mess.

Chowmahalla Palace
Though Mir Osman Ali Khan presided over Hyderabad state, which at that time covered an expanse of 2,23,000 sq km, roughly the present size of Great Britain, he opted not to shift into the beautiful Chowmohalla Palace, a lovely complex of palaces, courtyards, gardens, and ceremonial halls, built in 1750 by Salabat Jung.

Rather, he continued to reside in King Kothi Palace with very few personal comforts. He is reputed to have been quite miserly in his later years, where even the most prestigious visitor would be given a cup of tea and a biscuit; most of his wealth had been hoarded up in trunks in the godown at the palace. However, when it came to public welfare, he was always generous-spirited. The Nizam also donated five tonnes of gold to the National Defence Fund in 1965 when India was anticipating a threat from China. However, in tune with his notorious frugality, Mir Osman Ali Khan told the officials: “I am donating the gold and not the iron boxes. Do not forget to return them.” Once the gold had been offloaded in Delhi the empty boxes were duly returned to the Nizam!

Princess Esra, who has steered the upkeep of the palaces, has had the dilapidated Chowmohalla restored and beautified. Now serving as a museum it has on display its fabulous collections which are now well documented.

Falaknuma Palace
One of Hyderabad’s most opulent palaces was visibly dying from neglect in the 1990s when Princess Esra finally sorted things out for its restoration and tie-up with the Taj group to run it as a luxury hotel.  Before the sixth Nizam set eyes on it this grand structure dating to the late 19th century was the prized home of a Paigah nobleman the Nawab Viqar-ul-Umarar. The nawab had little choice but to sell it to the envious Nizam. The complex was a superb structure, designed by an Italian architect and filled with the most unimaginable luxuries. The 60 rooms and suites are beautifully refurbished and have been sensitively restored by Her Highness Princess Esra.  Visitors now can do a ticketed tour of the gorgeous palace which includes high tea.

Mecca Masjid
You can feed the pigeons which descend in hordes around the serene structure which dates back to the late 17th century. The Mecca Masjid is a seamless fusion of Persian, Qutb Shahi, and Mughal architectural features.

Salar Jung Museum
Dive into the priceless treasures on display to feel the heartbeat of Nizami-era cultural expositions. Nawab Mir Yousuf Ali Khan, or Salar Jung III, served as the prime minister of Nawab Mir Osman Ali Khan Nizam VII in 1912. Salar Jung III decided to quit his post and chose to devote his life to the pursuit of treasures of art and literature. His great passion drove him to personally explore the markets of Europe and the Middle Eastern countries. His astonishing private collection is a source of great wonderment. Over 30 galleries concentrate on different themes. 

The Salar Jung Museum along with its library was declared an “Institution of National Importance” in 1961 by an act of Parliament. The show stealers here are the “Veiled Rebecca” a marble sculpture by G B. Benzoni; the Marguerite and Mephistopheles wood carving; the world’s largest collection of ‘Bidri ware’; the extensive collection of Far Eastern Art comprising Japanese and Chinese art objects of Porcelain, Bronze, Enamel, Lacquer-ware, Embroidery, Paintings, Wood and Inlay work; and the rich library of rare books and illuminated manuscripts of huge value.

Culinary Paradise
Not many are aware that Hyderabad city is listed as a UNESCO creative city of gastronomy. If that doesn’t get your tastebuds salivating what will? From the pungent pleasures of Andhra dishes to the delectable biriyanis of high fragrance and exotic flavours; from exquisite haleems to delicious Irani chai; from the distinguished desserts to awesome bakeries, you have a banquet of delights to tempt even the most untutored palate.

Shop till you drop

Head for Shilparamam to do a deep dive into Hyderabad’s deep arts and crafts heritage. Located at Madhapur. The craft village offers visitors opportunities to interact directly with the artisans who can be seen showcasing their ancestral skills in this dedicated spot. In the Old Quarter of the city, Laad Bazaar is still your go-to place for shopping for pearls, lac bangles, and bridalwear.

ACCOMMODATION
A fabulous range of swanky hotels along with mid-range and low-budget properties are scattered around town.

ACCESS
Hyderabad airport and railway station offer excellent connections to India’s major metros.