AULI BUGYAL- COME AND SEE THE SNOW

Pitched at a height of 9,500 and 10,500 ft in the Garhwal Himalayas the alpine meadowland (bugyal) resort of Auli stands hard by the borderlines of the pristine Nanda Devi National Park in Upper Garhwal. From Joshimath, it’s a 16km road journey. But go instead for the 4km uphill cable car ride, for its commanding views of those spectacular snow peak panoramas.

The weather gods have decided to play hide and seek, keeping us on tenterhooks about snow conditions in India’s favourite skiing destinations. They did this in Auli in 2023 when the Winter Games had to be ditched because there wasn’t enough snow. The snows are late again in January 2024 but hope springs eternal in the hearts of the weathermen, and the Winter Games organizers are confident that the snows will return to make those.

Yet, be of good cheer, even though skiing-worthy snow may not happen, there is enough snow around for visitors to enjoy this lovely winter destination in the picturesque setting of the Garhwal Himalayas in Uttarakhand. From the cable car, on a clear day, savour those shining moments soaking up the grand vistas of the Nanda Devi Range.

In the Kingdom of Nanda Devi

For the initiated, the revered Nanda Devi ((7,817 m), enveloped in a thick mist of myth and mystery, is India’s second-highest peak after Mt Khangchendzonga in Sikkim. A huge attraction for international mountain climbing buffs, its sanctum was put out of bounds for security reasons. A remote sensing device, secretly set atop Nanda Devit monitored China’s nuclear activities by the CIA and India’s Intelligence Bureau in October 1965. The following year when they returned to check on it, all equipment had vanished as had the container with the generator’s fuel (seven plutonium capsules). It’s still lost!  And the snow keeps still its deadly secret. Closed for decades now since 1983 due to garbage accumulation and environmental degradation Nanda Devi is a hands-off destination for climbers.

 So, let’s get back to Auli.

A popular summer destination, fuelled by the plenitude of trekking trails, botanical wealth, and abundant unpolluted environs, Auli’s winter days allurements have made it an all-year-round destination. There are those visitors who are even ready to brave the monsoon season, so enamoured are they of this pristine, uncrowded hill town with its alpine meadows, snow peaks and forests filled with birdsong.

When times are good and the weather gods in a benign mood the snows last from late December to March. Temperatures can hover around 0 °C to 17°C. Plunging temperatures notwithstanding visitors arrive togged up from head to toe happily cavorting on the snowfields, indulging in snowball fights, snowman building, sledding — and even trying their hands at skiing.

Auli is a classic skiing destination with its world-class ski runs which have played host to the Annual National Ski Competition held by the Winter Games Federation of India in March.

From the gateway town of Joshimath (16km by road), you can hop on to the ropeway that links up with Auli. Get ready for some wonderful Instagrammable images of the gorgeous surrounds.

Skiing and Snowboarding

If you are serious about learning these two thrilling activities for a fraction of the price you would abroad, here’s the lowdown on all that’s happening here.

All such activities are carried out under the purview of the Garhwal Mandal Vikas Nigam (GMVN) which also offers 7-day/14-day skiing courses (with equipment, meals, and stay) between January and March. Auli is well on the road to becoming one of the most alluring, uncrowded ski destinations, having already set in place a 500m-long chairlift and a world-class 800m-long ski lift, the longest ski lift in the country. Almost 20 km of virgin slopes are available for indulging in cross-country, slalom, and down-hill skiing activities. The grooming of the snow slopes, (famous for their powder snows, the holy grail for snowboarders), is also monitored by GMVN.

The upper snowfields are ideal for the skilled, the lower ones are practice runs for newbies. Linked by the ski lift, they give you more time on the snow rather than wasting time on the commute between the two.

Not many people are aware that a research survey conducted by the Alpine Tourism Promotion Council (ATPC) based at Saas Grund, near Zurich, Switzerland, has equated the slopes of Auli (Asia’s second largest) to the best in the world.

Gorson Bugyal

If Auli doesn’t get enough snow, the more enthusiastic crowd heads for Gorson 3km away. Plans are afoot to develop Gorson as a big-time ski destination in its own right. Gorson Bugyal offers mesmerising 180° views of Nanda Devi (7,817 m), Kamet (7,756 m), Mana Peak (7,273 m), Dunagiri (7,066m), Hathi Parbat (6,727 m), Bethantoli (6,353 m) and Ghora Parbat peaks.

By the way, the Gorson Reserve Forest, which is a small slice of the Nanda Devi National Park, is rich in botanical wealth and a host of rare Himalayan wildlife including snow Leopard the Musk Deer. Gorson Reserve Forest is a gorgeous place for summertime treks.

Visitors, in limited numbers are only permitted to visit the dedicated trail around the periphery of the gorgeous Nanda Devi National Park, under strict supervision.

So get ready for the time of your life, creating new stories and new memories in tranquil Auli in its winter mood.

ACCOMMODATION

GMVN runs a resort here. There are also several private hotels in the vicinity.

ACCESS

Air: Dehra Dun’s Jolly Grant Airport is 235 km away. Taxis can be hired for the run to Auli. 

Rail Haridwar (290km) the nearest railhead is well connected to Delhi. Onward journey to Joshimath can be made by taxi or bus. From here you can take the cable car to Auli (4km/16km).

Road: Joshimath is linked by state and private buses from Haridwar, Dehradun, and Delhi