BANGALORE BUSTLE AND BOUNTY

Bangalore’s present-day avatar is still a pot of honey which propels India’s aspirational work-hunting drones to lose themselves in the melee of thousands of others in quest of the same dreams. Making it big in the IT world from those early days of its transformation from the ‘Garden City’ to India’s Silicon Valley, has gone up several notches with the Digital India Act now aimed at driving socio-economic development in the country. While pub-crawling is still as endemic to the city vibe as are the laptops in cafes and homes since the pandemic took hold, the party scene is as lively as it is ever before.

Yet for those in search of Bangalore’s history and heritage spaces, it’s a relief that these twin engines of cultural splendour are richly evident despite the clamour of the frenetic pace of the Bangalore of today

Don’t get distracted by the hype and hullaballoo of start-ups and fortunes made overnight. Instead, take a wander around Karnataka’s state capital and discover how a more graceful past has seamlessly embraced the frantic pace of today without yielding an inch.

 THE INDIAN FACTOR

Tipu’s Palace and Fort, though it’s now crowded in by the embrace of rampant development of the market, it is still worth a visit as its transformed into a museum now. This summer retreat of the legendary ruler of Mysore is a poetic fusion of architectural detailing inspired by the Indo-Saracenic style.

Bend it at Basavanagudi

Wander around Bangalore’s oldest cultural hubs to imbibe its true-blue yesteryears vibe. The name itself is inspired by its iconic Bull Temple or bavasavana gudi. Old timers rub shoulders with youngsters filling the local cafes for the yummy traditional breakfast (thindi) offerings here. Vegetarians are well looked after with a host of delicious options like the ever-popular Davangere-Benne dosa, the rava idli and rava vada. You have to hang around a bit before shouldering your way into the iconic Vidhyarthi Bhavan when your time comes to leave the snaking queue there! It’s beloved for its piping hot dosas vadas and coffee> Else you can head for another all-time favourite Dwarka Bhavan which has staked its reputation on its khali dosas. For coffee and gossip head for Brahmin’s Coffee Bar where old timers fritter away the morning hours!

Basavanagudi with its laidback air also opens up a small window to the old Bangalore as it is amongst the city’s most traditional neighborhoods.  Enjoy photo ops amidst the clutch of heritage buildings that have survived the onslaught of development in other parts of town. Pop into Gandhi Bazaar, the atmospheric neighbourhood market, where housewives gather to haggle over the prices of vegetables to the old paan stall where you can pick up your favourite smokes. Many of the vendors here have been in business for generations.

Malleswaram Medley

With its thriving local culture this is the spot to explore Bangalore’s native roots and its history and heritage. Hotspots to explore here are the Kadu Mallikarjuna Temple, Dakshinamukha Nandi Teertha Kalyani Kshetra, the CTR tiffin room, Venugopalaswamy Temple, Wood Museum and Sankey Lake. Lose yourself in the hectic bazaar scene as locals and visitors throng the shops to bargain over silks and sarees, household goods and fruits and vegetables.

CASUALLY COLONIAL

Located in Malleshwaram the Bangalore Palace, the lavish residence of Chamaraja Wodeyar built in the year 1887, took its inspiration from England’s iconic Windsor Castle. Unmissable architectural details such as the fortified arches, towers, Tudor-style details will wing you back to its colonial aspirations. Tours are granted for parts of this palatial pile which are not occupied by the royals.

Fraser Town, or the old neighbourhood of Mootoocherry,  on the outskirts of the Cantonment, is perfect for an exploration of its heritage buildings and food offerings. Check out the colonial-days bungalows, churches and scattering of mosques which share space with popular bakeries, cafes and restaurants selling largely Mughlai and Middle-Eastern fare. Popular haunts here are Albert Bakery, Charminar Kabab Paradise, Pista House and Chichabas Taj.If stones could speak, what stories would they reveal of the colonial heyday in this lively pocket of Bangalore.  

 Pop into Francis Xavier’s Cathedral with its striking dome, situated near the placid Ulsoor Lake.  Spend time here simply marvelling at the beautiful frescoes and soaking in the tranquil vibe of the place. St John’s, the Anglican Church with its red facade and tower spire has a beautiful pipe organ.

 Mingle with the locals just hanging out, quaffing cups of Sulaimani tea, tucking into fragrant biryanis and gorging on melt-in-the mouth kebabs.

 Iconic Victoria-era Hot spots
Unmissable signposts of Bangalore colonial days are some stunning edifices which have stood steadfast in their old moorings, though the English have long gone. Check out the red-brick Gothic majesty of the State Library, the State Parliament Building and High Court. You can access these from a leisurely walk around Cubbon Park with its scattering of fountains, statues and memorials spread out under a canopy of beautiful old trees.  The five marble statues are of those important personages closely associated with Bangalore city— Queen Victoria, King Edward VII, Raja Chamarajendra Wodeyar, Dewan Seshadri Iyer (1913) and Sir Mark Cubbon. The Raj-era bandstand here still plays host to cultural programmes.  A string of colonial-day villas can be found along the residential areas of Lavelle Road, Museum Road, Rest House Road and Church Street.

BOTANICAL TREASURES

Lal Bagh Botanical Gardens the dreamy natural haven in Mavalli was a gift to the city by Haider Ali, Tipu Sultan’s illustrious father. A place of great interest here is the glass house which was inspired by the London Crystal Palace. Enjoy the thrill of a walk through by a botanical space marked by the endeavours of a sultan, a Mysore royal and several enthusiastic English horticulturists from the Raj-era. To get the most of a trip here sign up for a guided tour of this fabulous green lung in the heart of the city, remarkable for its exotic botanical heritage sourced from the four corners of the earth.

Cubbon Park, more familiar to today’s nature-loving patrons as Sri Chamarajendra Park, was established by Major General Richard Sankey in 1870, while working as the Chief Engineer of the Mysore State. This verdant spot, located behind the High Court, is a beloved haven for local residents and botanical buffs who also enjoy its historical significance.

OUT AND ABOUT

Join the citizenry which embraces a more leisurely pace over weekend breaks and holidays to spill into the social hubs of Brigade Road, M.G.Road, Church Street and Residency Road. Who would have believed that the Bangalore of yesteryears with the its slow-paced world of retirees and golfing rounds would transform into a hip and happening nightlife buzzing hotspot with a stream of pubs, and café’s, eateries and fine dining restaurants with world-class cuisine to cater to a globe-trotting, world-savvy youth population.

Golf is the new boardroom where mighty corporate deals are swung and squash courts are all about squashing the competition.

And shopping with the girls is a banquet of delights with the glitzy malls and their global brand- touting show windows, and swanky boutiques which give wing to the aspirations of the city’s fashion designers. Pick up silks and handicrafts in sandalwood, rosewood inlay or exquisite wooden carvings for folks back home. MG Rd and Commercial Street still hold a big allure for dedicated shoppers. The emporiums are richly stocked and are a veritable treasure trove for ethnic products.

  ACCOMMODATION

Bangalore has a host of stay options for all budgets.

ACCESS

Air: Kempegowda International Airport Bengaluru is well connected to other metros. Transfers to the city centre from the airport are easy. You can grab a cab at the pre-paid service counter.

Rail: The city has four major railway stations: Bangalore City Railway Station, Bangalore Cantonment Railway Station, Yesvantpur Junction Railway Station, and Krishnarajapuram Railway Station which offer excellent connections to major metros and cities pan India

Road: This is a boomtown and has great facilities. The Interstate Bus terminus is located at Subhash Nagar, near Majestic Circle across from the railway station. The road network is great. Computerised advance booking is available for Karnataka state buses – don’t forget this is India’s Silicon Valley!