THE MANY-SPLENDOURED CHARMS OF CHILIKA LAKE

Asia’s largest inland brackish lake, Chilika, which stretches over 1,165km across the districts of Puri, Khurda and Ganjam, is dotted with several islands which hold the interest of travellers for their diverse holiday experiences. The massive lagoon receives the saline waters of the Bay and Bengal, and the freshwater of the Daya Bhargavi rivers in the monsoon, creating a unique aquatic habitat for fish and underwater botanical diversity. Chilika’s silken waters are separated from the Bay of Bengal by a tiny isthmus.

What once served as a local picnic spot back in the day is now one of India’s most important Ramsar wetlands with a growing wealth of avifaunal species, both domiciled and migratory. Not many people are even aware that it is the largest wintering ground for migratory birds on the Indian sub-continent. The lake and its surrounds serve as a home to several rare and threatened species of flora and fauna including the green sea turtle, dugong, Irrawaddy dolphin, saltwater crocodiles, spoon-billed sandpiper, limbless skink, fishing cat and blackbuck.

Chilika’s tourist spots can be accessed from Barkul, Satpada, Balugaon and Rambha where one can also opt to stay at tourist hotels and private properties which cater to the stream of visitors which are on the rise with each season.

When Tourism and Fishing Help Drive the Local Economy

The tourism department has made vigorous promotional efforts to capitalize on Chilika’s many allurements, so one can enjoy rewarding birding and dolphin-spotting experiences, island-hopping trips and culturally rich interfaces with the local communities.

The rise in tourism number has helped unimaginably transform the local economy from those early days of discovery by itinerant visitors. Chilika is the nucleus for a flourishing riverine, agricultural and prawn farming culture. The lake’s rich ecosystem marked for its massive fishery resources helps sustain over 150,000 fisherfolk living in over 130 village settlements dotted along the shoreline.

BIRDING BOUNTY

       Chilika has gained a reputation as a birding destination par excellence. For the unaware, Chilika falls along the Central Asian Flyway for avifauna and serves as a critical stopover for migratory birds heading out from the arctic and sub-arctic regions during their onward and return migration along the east coast. A big attraction for these avifaunal visitors is the diverse habitat options including mudflats, floating and submerged vegetation, reed beds, and open waters with varying depths and salinity. Chilika has its domiciled avifaunal species which have fashioned a world for themselves from these critical components in the lake and its surrounds for their survival. Chilika which is enormously proud of its ‘Hira Pakhi’ as locals call the Flamingos, is one of the largest breeding grounds for Greater Flamingos. Nalabana Island and Mangalajodi, a freshwater wetland, have been identified as Important Bird Areas (IBA).

Mangalajodi the “Birds Paradise of Asia, which forms a small section of the northeastern extremity of Chilika is well-reputed for scripting a narrative for how conservation can generate livelihood and banish the menace of poaching. The 10 sq. km marshland habitat plays host to over 3, 00,000 birds.

The Nalbana Island Bird Sanctuary, which is out of bounds for tourists all year round, is open for a limited number of visitors during the annual 3-day National Chilika Bird Festival held in January. The latest census has revealed a total count of 11.37 lakh birds across over 187 species according to state tourism authorities.

ISLAND HOPPING

Barkul has on offer a range of boating options for birding trips and island-hopping.  The latest offering, Odisha’s first luxury houseboat, Garuda offers a five-star cruising experience. It is operated by the Vikash Eco Resort. The luxury boat offers four premium rooms, two suites and fine dining experiences.

Rambha is a popular spot for honeymooning couples. Its idyllic serenity, the calm waters of the lake and the verdant environs offer many excuses for leisurely jaunts around the island. Watching the fishing boats bring in the night catch, the birds diving down to share some of that bounty and the rowdy pitch of vendors and buyers add that authentic appeal for great photo ops. Boats can be rented for quick trips to Breakfast Island, Beacon Island and Birds Island. On a lucky day, you might find dolphins cavorting in the waters.

Birds Island is increasingly being favoured by migratory birds so it’s quite aptly named; it offers many rewarding experiences for birding buffs. The black granite rocks here are so markedly covered by the droppings of the avian visitors you can’t be blamed if you think those rocks are white.

Beacon Island has gathered its name from the beacon which was placed here by the erstwhile tax collector of Ganjam, one Thomas Snodgrass, on behalf of the East India Company whom he worked for back in 1791. Snodgrass was quite a colourful character who enjoyed living the high life on the mainland shooting, trapping and entertaining visitors, far away from the prying eyes of his superiors in Madras. It’s believed he even refused to return to Company headquarters to account for his tax collecting activities and went as far as to dumping the files in the lake, pretending it was an accident! Kicked out by his bosses, without even a pension, he ended up as a sweeper in London!

Breakfast Island, located between Badakuda and Somolo Island, is reputed for its great floral wealth. Wandering around the island you can’t miss the remnants of a house built by the raja of Khallikote. A common visitor here was Mr Snodgrass of Beacon Island fame.  It’s best accessed by a speedboat.

Kalijai Island is home to a beautiful temple raised to Ma Kalijai the patron deity of Chilika by the Raja of Parikud. The island becomes a bustling hub of religious fervour during the annual celebrations of Makar Sankranti fair held in mid-January.

ACCOMMODATION

Tourist hotels (Panthnivas) and private hotels serve this lakeside retreat for all budgets

ACCESS

Air: Bhubaneswar is the nearest airport (110km)

Rail: Puri, 50 km away, is the nearest railhead.

Road: Buses and boats are available to access the lake