Exploring the Mesmerizing Beauty of Bhedaghat

Jabalpur
Once a pleasure resort and the capital of the Gond kings in the 12th century, Jabalpur later became the seat of the Kalchuri dynasty. The Marathas ruled the region until 1817, when the British took control, leaving their mark in the form of a spacious cantonment dotted with colonial-era residences and barracks. Today, Jabalpur thrives as a major administrative hub, alive with vibrant commercial activity and a rich blend of history and modernity.

Madan Mahal Fort

Madan Mahal Fort: Tradition attribute the fort to Gond ruler Madan shah who supposedly built it in 1116AD. Some scholars surmise that the fort dates back to Rani Durgavati’s reign. However the stone slab outside the fort, among other things claim that it was built by the Gond ruler Hridayshah when he shifted his capital to Ramnagar, Mandla (16 Cent). Half way up the steps to Madan Mahal fort is a Shiva Temple Sindh Pancheshwar Bholenath mandir.

Rani Durgavati Memorial and Museum: The largest collection of the art objects displayed in the Museum belongs to 10 to 13″ Centuary. There are section dedicated to nationalist leaders, tribal gallery, numismatic gallery and an entire section is dedicated to the 10 Cent Chaunsath yogini temple at Bhedaghat.

Tilwara Ghat, from where Mahatma Gandhi’s ashes were immersed in the Narmada, and venue of the open session of Tripuri Congress in 1939; the 12th century Mala Devi Mandir, Pisan Hari Jain Temples, and Roopnath are some of the other places in and around Jabalpur which merit a visit.

Cantonment area: Set up in 1826, the Cantonment, the area has many significant colonial structures such as the Law Courts, Commissioners Residency and Empire theatre. The Commissioner’s Residency was the focal point during the First War of Independence during 1857.

Tanks and stepwells: The Gond rulers had a penchant for tanks and step wells. Ranital, Cherital, Adhatral, Thakurtal are amongst the many that were constructed during Rani Durgavati’s reign. The most significant tal is the Hanuman tal.

Narmada Club: Founded in 1889, it was one of the best clubs of Central India. It was a hub of the British Civilian Officers, Army Officers & elite Indians.
The city of Jabalpur takes pride as the game of Snooker originated here in the Officer’s Mess in 1875.

Things to Do: When in Jabalpur do try the local Khoya Jalebi which readily available in all sweet shops. Made of Mawa and dipped in sugar syrup, this version of Jalebi is a famous sweet dish of this region.

En route Kanha and Bandhavgarh : Jabalpur is the most convenient base for visits to the famous Kanha (165 km) and Bandhavgarh (190km) National Parks.

Dumna Nature Reserve: Dumna Nature Reserve is an eco tourism site spread over an area of 1058 hectare of land. The visitors can explore the reserve by taking a walk around the place. One can spot the wild animals like spotted deer, chital, wild boar, porcupine, jackal, monkey, many species of birds etc in the park. A children’s park and a restaurant by Madhya Pradesh Tourism is also developed in this nature reserve. It is at the distance of 8 kms from Jabalpur city on Jabalpur-Dumna Airport Road.

Bargi: It is 35 kms from Jabalpur city. At the Bargi Boat Club, cruise for local cruising and on demand to Mandla (Cruise ride – 90 kms one way, which is 5-6 hr journey) is available. Tourists can alight here for onward journey to Kanha by road which is 100 kms or stay overnight at Mandla for return to Bargi, the next day.
Bargi Dam Boating on the crystal-clear waters of the Narmada

Bhedaghat Jabalpur: Nature’s Marble Masterpiece

The small village of Bhedaghat is sacred as the confluence of T Banganga, with the Narmada. Some people equate the word Bheda with Sangam (confluence) and hence the name “Bhedaghat’. The area has been, for centuries, a sacred ground for many rituals, which were mostly tantric in nature.

Initially a tantrik peeth, it was known as Bhairava ghati. Tradition has it that it was here that the famous sage, Bhrigu, sacrificed himself to please Lord Shiva.
Soaring in glittering splendour, the Marble Rocks at Bhedaghat rise to a hundred feet on either side of the Narmada. The serene loveliness of the scene is one of cool quiet, the sunlight sparkling on the marble white pinnacles and casting dappled shadows on the pellucid waters.

In his ‘Highlands of Central India’, Captain J. Forsyth speaks eloquently about the infinitely varied beauty of the rocks. “The eye never wearies of the…. effect produced by the broken and reflected sunlight, now glancing from a pinnacle of snow-white marble reared against the deep blue of the sky as from a point of silver; touching here and there with bright lights the prominences of the middle heights; and again losing itself in the soft bluish greys of their recesses’.
Here and there the white saccharine limestone is seamed by veins of dark green or black volcanic rock; a contrast which only enhances, like a setting of jet, the purity of the surrounding marble.”

Places to Visit

Marble Rocks: Soaring high in glittering splendor the Marble Rocks at Bhedaghat rise to a hundred feet (30.5).

On either side of the Narmada. Described by the Imperial Gazetteer as “the tortuous, gorge of white marble’ the river here winds in a deep narrow stream flowing silently through high cliffs of magnesium limestone. Here and there the brilliant whiteness as tinted with veins of blue, pink and azure.

Dhuandhar Falls: Further upstream is the Dhuandhar waterfall. Dhuandhar meaning smoke cascade. Here the Narmada leaves its wide bed and falls, from a height of 30 ft (9 m) in a spectacular cascade. So powerful is the plunge that water droplets rise in a concentrated mass, creating an illusion of vapours or smoke thus giving the falls the name “Dhuandhar”.

Chaunsath Yogini Temple: Built on a hillock, the Chaunsath Yogini Temple is approached by a long flight of steps, made out of the debris of the old monuments that stood here prior to the construction of the Yogini Temple , The 10th century Chaunsath Yogini Temple is dedicated to goddess Durga

Soapstone Artefacts: The soapstone revealed by the Narmada provides occupation to families of carvers of gods and goddesses, lingas, crosses, madonnas, ashtrays and trinket boxes.

Getting there

By Air: Jabalpur (23km) is the nearest airport for Bhedaghat.

By Rail: Jabalpur, on the Mumbai-Howrah via Allahabad main line, is the main railhead. All mail, express and passenger trains halt here.

By Road: Frequent buses, tempos and taxis are available from Jabalpur.

Best Season: October to May