HAMPI – Spectacle of Lost Empirical Splendour

Spectacle of Lost Empirical Splendour

They never thought the mighty empire they worked so hard to establish would meet this terrible fate. Brothers Harihara and Bukka, local chieftains who once had served both the Kakatiya and Kampili kingdoms, took the urgings of their mentor the sage Vidyaranya very seriously. He directed them to expand their territories into a powerful Hindu kingdom to combat the growing power of the Islamic Delhi Sultanate which was inexorably gobbling up parts of the Deccan now.

The two brothers took their mentor’s guidance to heart with a vengeance, not only working together to carve out a solid base for themselves, but they even managed to shake the very foundations of the political moorings of the Deccan region with their growing ambition. That fledgling kingdom created by them rose to become one of the most powerful kingdoms in the South with an uninterrupted rule for over three centuries. A total of 23 kings sourced from four dynasties controlled the fortunes of this formidable sovereign realm.

Vijayanagara stood out too, not just for its political strength, but also for its outstanding wealth and cultural splendour. It was the wealthiest kingdom of ancient India, empowered by its trade and commercial activities, particularly its hold on the movement of commodities such as spices and cotton. Vijayanagara’s bazaars were filled with all manner of luxuries ranging from costly textiles to unique gemstones.

Its cultural moorings were nourished by the likes of the legendary Raja Krishnadeva Raya (1509-1529 AD) and his half-brother Achyuta Raya of the Tuluva Dynasty. Today the ruins of Hampi, the old bastion of the Vijayanagara kings, offer a small window to the patronage of religious architecture. It is under Krishnadeva Raya, who controlled the territories of the entire region south of the Krishna and Tungabhadra rivers, except for the small principalities lining the Malabar Coast, that the kingdom reached its zenith.

The biggest threat for the Vijayanagara kings was posed by the Islamic Bahmani kingdom, north of Hampi.  The epic battle of Talarikota with the Deccan Muslim confederacy in 1565 sounded the death knell for Vijayanagara.

The stark rack and ruin of Hampi as a vicious answer to all the humiliations they had faced from the Hindu kings is a reminder of that stinging reprisal of the Deccani sultans to this day. Hampi was the polished gemstone for the Vijayanagara rulers and it is here that the Deccani sultans directed their hatred, envy, and religious ire.

A wander through the massive18 km UNESCO World Heritage Site, filled with a plethora of temples, royal and residential structures, bazaar streets, and a network of canals, brings home the reality of what Vijanagara symbolized for ancient India.

Nestling by the Tungabhadra River, this boulder-strewn ruin of the capital of one of the most powerful kingdoms of the south attracts visitors from all over the globe. First-time visitors may get floored by the mass of over 500 monuments scattered across this semi-arid terrain. It’s always useful to have a guide at hand to help you explore the highlights. But as a rule of thumb, you can keep in mind that the ruins are broadly segregated as the Sacred Centre, marked by the many temples, etc, and the Royal Enclosure comprising the functional areas of the palace. The massive use of granite, hard and unyielding, has been important in the preservation of some of the structures at the site. You can still see remains of the Hampi Bazaar, which used to be a treasure trove for retail therapy for residents, back in the day.

Sacred Centre

Lying in proximity to the Tungabhadra the 7^th century Virupaksha Temple, the oldest and most important religious structure at Hampi, is dedicated to Lord Shiva the tutelary deity of the Vijayanagar kings. The temple has some very impressive frescoes to linger over. The front courtyard houses the unique 3-headed Nandi the only one of its kind in an Indian temple. Keep your eyes peeled for the emblem of the Vijayanagara Kingdom carved into a rock here. It features a combination of boar along with an image of the sun and moon and a dagger.

The Virupaksha Temple is one of the few living temples at Hampi. Temple rituals are carried out in the Ranga Mandapa, which was commissioned by Krisnadeva Raya in 1510 CE. Even weddings are held here. The ceiling has remnants of what must have once been a carpet of beautiful murals. It might interest you to stop by the shrine of the planetary deities with the icons of the nava grahas atop an elevated platform. As you exit the main sanctum area do note the tiny shrine raised to the sage Vidyaranya, mentor of Vijayanagar’s founder kings Hairhara and Bukka.  

Also nearby are the Pattibhirama, Raghunatha Balakrishna, and Vijaya Vittala temples.

Spend time at the fabulous Vijaya Vittala Temple remarkable for its elaborate carvings first initiated in 1513 in the reign of Krishnadeva Raya. The temple was raised to Lord Vishnu, but for some reason left incomplete. Highlights here are also the 56 musical pillars, and in the courtyard, a colossal Konark-style stone-carved chariot temple, dedicated to Lord Vishnu’s vehicle – the Garuda.  The Maha Mantapa, opposite the chariot shrine, is stunning for its ornate platform illustrated by sculpted horses, tradesmen, and floral motifs.

The Krishna Temple was raised as a memorial to Krishnadeva Raya’s victory over the Gajapathi kings of Utkala (Odisha)present-day Orissa). On Hemakuta Hill amongst the many shrines scattered here is the Mula Virupaksha Temple much visited for its stunning sunset views. The Veerabhadra Temple offers commanding views of Hampi from atop Matanga Hill. En route to the Royal Centre, an unmissable site is Ugra Narasimha, featuring the massive statue of Vishnu seated cross-legged upon a coiled seven-headed snake (Sesha) form of Narsimha.  Nearby stands the Badavilinga Temple with its 12-foot-high granite linga.

Royal Enclosure

This was the primary spot for the most damage by the vandals of the sultans’ armies. Scattered across the enclosure are remains of palaces, the quarters of the noblemen, baths, pavilions and platforms, and numerous watchtowers.

The 14th-century Mahanavami Dibba, a massive platform is assumed to have been used for royal ceremonies and festivities such as the Dasara festival. King’s Audience Hall was a 100-pillared structure, as assumed from the remnants of their placement still visible to this day. The 5-tiered Stepped Tank is a decorative affair probably also used for ceremonial activities Underground Chamber was a place for secret meetings for the king. The Hazara Rama Temple is impressive for the numerous bas-relics of vignettes from the Ramyanan which embellish the temple walls. Other spots to check out are the Queen’s Bath with its Islamic arches and decorative balconies, the Lotus Mahal in the Zenana Enclosure, and the Elephant Stables.

Since the site is quite massive you can catch a ride in the golf cart available at the front gate.

The annual Hampi Utsavl, held in January is a huge draw. Visitors get to sample a wide spectrum of cultural performances. The Jambu Safari is a big hit as it showcases elephants and men dressed as soldiers of the Vijayanagara Empire. Several competitive events are also organized including rock climbing and water adventure sports

The Sound and Light Show is a beautiful experience at the heritage site

Bouldering has become a big adventure activity at Hampi. It is a seasonal activity and draws many adventure buffs from across India and abroad. Coracle rides on the Tungabhadra River offer a fresh perspective on the monumental splendour of Hampi’s extensive ruins.

ACCOMMODATION

Hampi offers a range of stay options including budget inns, hotels and guesthouses to suit all budgets and preferences

ACCESS

Air: Bengaluru’s Kempegowda International Airport is well-connected to both domestic and international destinations. From Bengaluru, you can catch a train ride to Hospet the base for explorations of Hampi, 12km away by taxi or auto

Rail: Hospet Railway Station. You can take the Hampi Express from Yelahanka Junction in Bangalore

Road: Taxis and buses, both state-run and private, serve Hampi from Hyderabad, Bangalore and Goa.