The evocative perfume of jasmine follows you into the inner reaches of the gorgeous Meenakshi Temple in Madurai city. Leaving behind the line-up of flower sellers in the temple complex, you are hard-pressed not to dwell upon the numerous ways this exquisite little bloom, Madurai Malli as it’s known locally, has left its stamp on Madurai’s cultural expositions.
There is a strong belief, according to local lore that the jasmine is Goddess Meenakshi’s favourite flower, so it’s no surprise that Madurai Malli is one of the most significant offerings by devotees seeking the blessings of the goddess. It’s interesting to note that traditionally South Indian temple complexes used to have on-site gardens known as nandavanam which took care of the floral needs of the shrine.
When visiting the celebrated Meenakshi Temple do take time to explore its garden complex; it’s cool and fragrant environs can be a real treat.
Jasmine capital of India
The name Madurai is said to have been inspired by the perfumed drops of divine nectar that fell from the locks of Lord Shiva. This olfactory connection seems well aligned with the city’s sweet (madhur) intoxication with the scent of jasmine. The importance of jasmine is reflected in its stature in the local economy as well as it provides jobs for stringing garlands, weaving wreaths, decorating temples and wedding pandals and adorning the deities as well as for one’s personal use et al. Did you know that Madurai has a rich legacy of some very unique techniques of jasmine garland making?
For a more immersive experience of this rich legacy do spend time at Madurai Matthuthvani Flower Market, where the riot of colour, fragrance and human endeavour coalesce to provide shining selfie and Insta moments!
If you can arrange to visit a jasmine farm on the city outskirts or a local factory / perfume production house, that would be just too amazing for words. French fashion house Christian Dior is one of the leading firms to source Madurai jasmine for its perfumes, one of which, J’adore, has been a runaway bestseller. The house of Guerlain is much beloved for its iconic Mon Guerlain scent.
Having snagged the coveted Geographical Indication (GI tag), a whole new landscape for entrepreneurship has been opened up for Madurai for domestic as well as international collaborations for the perfume business.
Links with the ancient trade routes
Madurai which lies on the banks of the Vaigai River, was the bastion of the Pandyan kings, the earliest rulers (between the 4th and 16th centuries) of Tamil Nadu, which was also to fall under the sovereign command of the Cheras and Chola dynasties. Madurai, one of India’s oldest cities and has a rich history of international trade with the Greeks, Romans, Chinese and Egyptians, dating back to the days of the Pandyan and the dynasties that followed, as it lay on the ancient spice trade route.
Meenakshi Temple Complex
Also known as Meenakshi-Sundareshwara Temple this shrine is at the heart of Madurai’s spiritual outpourings. One of the oldest temples in South India, the Meenakshi Temple offers a fantastic overview of Dravidian temple architecture, marked by porches massive decorative entry gate towers, multi-pillared assembly halls, and a sacred tank for ritual baths.
Steeped in mythological and historical significance the shrine is a huge draw for millions of pilgrims seeking the blessings of the goddess.
The origins of the Meenakshi Temple date back to the 1st century C.E. when Kulashekarar Pandya, a ruler of the Pandyan dynasty, built the temple inspired by Lord Shiva in a dream.
The temple was looted in the 14th century by Malik Kafur, a commander of the Delhi Sultanate and was constantly under attack by Muslim invaders. Spread over 14 acres the walled temple complex you see today marks the restorative activities during the era of the rulers of Vijayanagara Kingdom. The Nayak ruler, Vishwanatha Nayakar, also added his efforts to its expansion and fortification in the 16th century.
Do find time to explore the superb interiors of Thirumalai Nayak Mahal during your wanderings in town.
The massive Meenakshi Temple complex includes the two primary shrines, one each for Lord Sundareshwar and Goddess Meenakshi, along with subsidiary shrines dedicated to Ganesha and Murugan and the goddesses Lakshmi, Rukmini, and Saraswati. The spectacular hall with a thousand pillars built on a single piece of granite is one of its most iconic features.
Lord Shiva (in his avatar here as Sundareshwar), uniquely takes a backseat here allowing devotees to lavish their love and devotion on his spouse Meenakshi, an avatar of Parvati. A spectacle not to be missed is the nightly pageantry of Lord Sundareshwar being take to their bedroom to join his consort Meenakshi marking the celestial union of the two deities.
Chithirai Festival
An unmissable experience is the pomp and pageantry associated with the 15-day Chithirai festival (April / Tamil month Chithirai) held as a devotional offering for goddess Meenakshi the sister of Lord Vishnu. The festivities mark the celebration of the coronation of Meenakshi as the divine ruler of Madurai and her marriage to Sundareshwar. A three-course meal is provided to the devotees after the recreation of the celestial wedding of Sundareshwar -Meenakshi. Two elaborately decorated sacred chariots, one for Goddess Meenakshi and the other for the Lord Sundareshwar, are pulled by devotees through the city streets heralding the arrival of the deities to visit their loyal subjects.
Lakhs of devotees also celebrate the journey of Lord Kallalagar (Vishnu) astride a golden horse riding down from his temple the Sri Sundararaja Perumal temple in the Alagar hills to Madurai to attend the wedding. Upset at being late for the ceremony Vishnu did not cross the Vaigai River and returned to his abode in the hills, but not before leaving behind wedding gifts for the couple. The carnival-like atmospherics of the festivities is an electrifying experience and offers visitors a stunning display of the rich culture and traditions of Tamil Nadu’s religious pursuits.
ACCOMMODATION
The city offers a wide range of stay options for all budgets.
ACCESS
Air: Located 10km away from town the airport offers good connections to major cities, as well as international flights to Colombo, Dubai and Singapore.
Rail: Madurai falls on the Madurai-Tiruchirappalli-Dindigul-Quilon line. As a major railway junction, it offers direct rail major cities and towns across India including New Delhi, Mumbai, Calcutta and Chennai.
Road: A good bus network in South India.