Shri Hemkund Sahib – The Sacred Abode of Meditation

Hemkund Sahib, the highest gurudwara in the world, is Lalso the only one connected with the previous birth of a Sikh guru. At a height of 14,202ft, this crystal-clear lake is reached after an arduous trek, which has been attracting pilgrims in increasing numbers. Traditionally a holy place for local Hindus, known as Laxman Lokpal, a small temple to Laxman still exists adjacent to the gurudwara. Around such timeless harmony, beautiful Brahma Kamal flowers

proliferate abundantly, almost erup ting out of the rocks surrounding the lake and contributing greatly to the beauty of the setting. Many devotees make the detour for a darshan of the neighbouring Valley of Flowers too (see p238). Mist drifts in and out of this high sanctuary, by turns veiling its enduring mystique and revealing, with astonishing clarity, a fellowship of resilient and grateful devotees.

According to Bachitra Naatak, an autobiographical account of Guru

HEMKUND SAHIB

Gobind Singh, it was at Hemkund that he meditated in his previous birth. The Sikh historian-poet Bhai Santokh Singh (1787-1843) provided a description of the tapasthan (where the guru meditated) in a story called ‘Dushtadaman’ (destruction of evil). Over time, many eminent historians, theologians and poets described Hemkund Sahib in their writings. But the first person to actually dis cover the location was Sant Sohan Singh, a retired granthi (one who has studied the Granth Sahib) from the army. In 1934, he visited the spot and returned, determined to set up a gurudwara there. Along with Hawal dar Baba Modan Singh, he built a 10sq ft-room and installed a copy of the Guru Granth Sahib there.

In the 1960s, the hawaldar established a seven-member organi-sation called the Gurudwara Shri Hemkund Sahib Management Trust. It took over the shrine’s manage-ment and established gurudwaras along the way, in Haridwar, Rishi-kesh, Srinagar, Joshimath, Govind-ghat and Ghangaria.

Traditionally, the Bengal Sappers clear the snow on the way to the shrine every year, as Hawaldar Baba Modan Singh belonged to this regiment of the Indian Army. It generally takes the Sappers about a month to clear the road from Govindghat to Hemkund Sahib. No one lives in Hemkund Sahib from October to May. The Shri Guru Granth Sahib is kept safely at Sach Khand during the winters. Every year Nihang Sikhs from the Damdami Taksal sect go to the top of each of the seven sacred hills, which surround Hemkund Sahib, and put up a flag called Nishan Sahib.

Govindghat is the last stop on the motorway. Hemkund Sahib is an 18-km trek (one-way) from here. A very fit person can undertake the return journey on pony in one day, but most trekkers need to halt overnight en route. Pilgrims nor-mally stop for the night at Ghan-gharia (see Where to Stay on p185). Devotees set off early in the mor-ning from Ghangaria and leave Hemkund Sahib after the last andaas (prayer) at 2.00pm.

At Govindghat, vehicles must be parked at a designated parking

PILGRIMAGES
place, with a registered parking lot operator. Luggage has to be carried on ponies or porters for stay at Ghangaria. Ponies and porters are available for hire at Govindghat. Bookings are done at the Union Office of the Eco Development Centre, Bhyundar, next to the gurudwara in Govindghat.
This is a strenuous trek. Pilgrims do take along very old family members and infants, but proper preparation is essential as the trail is very steep and cold

GETTING THERE

Air Nearest airport: Jolly Grant, Dehradun (307km/ 9.5hrs). Taxi to Govindghat costs ₹7,000-7,500

Rail Nearest railhead: Rishikesh (289km/9hrs), though Haridwar, 25km south, is better connected. Taxi to Govindghat from Rishikesh
Road : Hemkund Sahib is an 18-km trek from Govindghat on NH34 and NH7. From Delhi, follow NH7 (Badrinath Highway) to Govindghat via Modinagar, Meerut Bypass, Roorkee, Haridwar, Rishikesh, Rudraprayag (break journey), Karnaprayag, Chamoli, Joshimath and Vishnuprayag. Arrive at Joshimath before 4.00pm, else you will have to spend the night here till the gate on NH7 is reopened at 6.00am the next morning

Places to See around Hemkund Sahib

As a night halt is not possible in Hemkund Sahib, pilgrims can enjoy the spiritual ambience of the gurudwara and the scenic beauty of its setting as a day trip from Ghangaria. The famous Valley of Flowers National Park (the brief flowering season is from mid-July to mid-August, see p238 for a full account of the trek) is 3km from Ghangaria, and can be visited if you factoran extra day into the pilgrimage to Hemkund.

Gurudwara Shri Hemkund Sahib

The journey to Hemkund Sahib is difficult. Steps are often cut in the snow to make way in these heights. It snows even in September. The last 5-km stretch is very steep.

Surmounting difficulties, devotees are filled with a sense of achieve ment when they reach the gurudwara. And when the flowers bloom, Hemkund Sahib looks like heaven. The architecture of Hem-kund Sahib is striking. Its roof is in the shape of an inverted lotus flower, the urdha kamal, which is an important image in the Granth Sahib. It represents the yet unblos somed soul of man, which opens up to enlightenment on maturity This design is also appropriate for withstanding the snow and ice of the region’s winters. The guru-dwara’s pentagonal shape is also

significant in Sikh lore. Before entering the shrine, many pilgrims have an ishnan (holy dip) in the lake’s cold waters and recite

GOPINATHS

Campsite at Ghangaria

Rishikesh Tel: 0135-2430229; Srinagar Tel: 01346-252203; Joshimath Tel: 01389-222121; Govindghat Cell: 089913 22581; and Ghangaria Cell: 08991322555.
ideal place to stay here. They only serve organic food.

In Ghangaria

Ghangaria Camp Resort (Cell: 07579208060, 08449812304), opposite the helipad, has 10 luxury tents and hot baths. Sri Nanda Lokpal Palace (Cell: 09412909307) has a restaurant and also organises treks around here. GMVN’s Ghangaria Tourist Rest House (Cell: 070602 11150) has  rooms,  huts and  dorms. The gurudwara here can also accommodate yatris. They have arrangements to feed pilgrims.

WHERE TO EAT
The free langar at gurudwaras in Govindghat and Ghangaria starts at 3.00am and goes on for as long as there are pilgrims who need food. In Hemkund Sahib, khichdi and tea is provided as langar (8.00am-4.00pm). Pilgrims can receive sweet pinni prasad at the Govindghat Gurudwara. There are many dhabas serving snacks and basic meals on the trek to Hemkund Sahib..

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