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Lustrous Sutra of Salvation and Peace
When a troubled prince Siddhartha Gautama quietly left home, leaving behind his wife and child, his loving parents— and surely the privileged life of a future king of the Shakya kingdom, he never imagined he would leave behind a spiritual legacy that would endure for centuries. Or, that the newfound faith he had discovered, after years of penance and austerity, would in time touch a global community even to this day.
That legendary journey to enlightenment at Bodhgaya in the present-day state of Bihar in India, far away from his home in Lumbini, in the verdant Terai region of Nepal, we all know is now well documented. Yet, the retelling of the narrative of how the prince became the Enlightened One—the Awakened One–the Buddha— released from the endless cycle of rebirths, adds fresh lustre to what became one of the world’s oldest living religions.
Located in the Terai region of Nepal, close to the borderlands of eastern India, Lumbini was the Buddha’s place of birth. From his very birth in 623 BC, as an heir to the throne he was secured away from the evils of the world, by his doting parents Shakya king Suddhodana and his Queen Mahamaya, who were terrified that, as predicted, their son might one day renounce the world to become a great seer. The global Buddhist community while on pilgrimage today considers Lumbini one of the most significant touchpoints of the Buddha’s spiritual legacy.
For Prince Siddharth that long journey, far from his homeland and loved ones, involved years of wanderings through the present-day Indian states of Bihar and Uttar Pradesh; despair, self-doubt, and many spiritual trials were his constant companions which no amount of penance or austerities or debates with seers could assuage. It was while passing through a small village in Bihar, while deep in meditation under a peepal tree, an epiphany transformed him from a troubled mendicant to ‘The Enlightened One—the Buddha’.
Some of the most sacred places related to Buddha’s spiritual journey are located in Bihar and Uttar Pradesh, attracting Buddhist pilgrims from all over the world, to recapture the magnetism of his faith. At the heart of the Buddha’s teaching is the concept of the 4 noble truths and the 3 jewels (Buddha, Dharma, Sangha) through the 8-fold path to salvation and peace.
In his dying moments in his 80th year, Buddha urged his dedicated followers to carry on his life’s task, long after his imminent Mahaparinirvana (release from the endless cycle of rebirths), to visit Lumbini, Bodhgaya, Sarnath, and Kushinagar, the cornerstones of his odyssey to Enlightenment. In so doing he reasoned, the reminder of the hardships on the journey to salvation and peace would give fresh impetus to their belief in the Buddhist way— which was individual effort, rather than ritual reliance on a superhuman being to help solve the riddles of spiritual fulfillment.
The burgeoning footprint of the Buddhist faith over millennia across the entire subcontinent and large parts of South and South East Asia has been marked by the emergence of three major streams of Buddhism: Mahayana, Theravada, and Vajarayana. Yet what still binds them together are pilgrimages to the holiest places associated with Buddha’s quest for Enlightenment (Nirvana) from Kapilvastu to Bodhgaya in Bihar in India.
Bodhgaya
In 2023 the Mahabodhi Mahavihara was beautifully illuminated in celebration of the 2,567th Buddha Jayanti, or birthday of the Buddha. The rich pageantry accompanying the auspicious event attained by thousands of devotees from all over the world started with a procession in the morning from the open-air 80-foot Buddha seated on a lotus in dhyana mudra, to the main shrine. Chanting of the suttas from the Buddhist scriptures at the Mahabodhi Tree and prayers and lighting of butter lamps all marked the sacred ceremonies. As per tradition kheer was offered to the Buddha at the Sujata Kutti in memory of Sujata, who offered milk-rice pudding (kheer) to Buddha after he had undertaken severe penance.
A UNESCO- World Heritage Site this living center of Buddhist worship is powered by the great significance of the Mahabodhi Mahavihara Temple, originally commissioned by Buddha’s greatest devotee, the emperor Ashoka, at the site of the Bodhi tree. The present temple dates from the 5th or 6th centuries. The Hindu king’s propagation of his newfound faith, after the bloody war with Kalinga (Odisha) beyond Indian shores is a lasting legacy.
What’s also of significance is that this is one of the earliest Buddhist temples constructed entirely in brick, still standing, from the late Gupta period. It served as a great influencer in the development of brick architecture over the centuries.
Monks and pilgrims from Nepal, Vietnam, Thailand, Cambodia, Japan, and other parts of South Asia and the globe arrive in droves to offer prayers, perform religious ceremonies and meditate. Essential to the rituals is the parikrama (circumambulation) of the 50m high Mahabodhi Temple when devotees spend reflective moments at each of the sacred stations including the sacred Bodhi Tree. It is a direct descendant of the original tree under which Buddha attained Nirvana. Deeply venerated is the huge 10th-century gilded Buddha seated blissfully in bhumisparsha mudra. The Vajrasthal— The Diamond Throne, marking the exact spot of that life-transforming attainment of Nirvana.
Other principal spots of the seven sacred stations to visit are:
Animesh Lochan Chaitya, Chankramana Chaitya, Ratnagarh Chaitya, Ajapala Nigrodha Tree, Muchalinda Lake, Rajayatana Tree and the Lotus Pond.
A good time to visit Bodhgaya, fabled as the cradle of Buddhism in the history of mankind, is during the Buddha Purnima Festival on the occasion of Buddha’s birthday, which falls on the full moon day of Hindu month of Vaishakh—April/May. The annual Bodh Mahaotsav, organized by Bihar Tourism and Government of Bihar is held in February to celebrate the Buddha’s attainment of Nirvana.
You can further your Bodhgaya experience by visiting the host of temples established here by many Buddhist countries. The oldest one here is the Tibetan Monastery; the Thai Monastery stands out for its gilded rooftops; the Vietnamese Temple has a stunning statue of Avalokiteswara; the serene Burmese Vihara nestles by River Niranjana, and the Royal Bhutan Monastery is remarkable for its clay carvings in the interiors.
Sarnath
Returning to Kashi (present-day Varanasi) Buddha, having attained Nirvana, sought out his old companions to share the news of his life-transforming experience. The small group led by the Buddha retired to a small deer Park at Sarnath, close to Kashi where he passionately expounded on the highlights of this new faith in his first sermon— dharamchakrapravartna —setting in motion the wheel of law, to what would be his first sangha (disciples). They would oftentimes return to Sarnath.
The primary spots to explore are Mulgandhakuti Vihara, and (inside the Archaeological and Excavation Area) the Dharmarajika Stupa and the Dhamek Stupa (marking the spot of Buddha’s first sermon). The Dhamek Stupa was originally erected by King Ashoka as was the commemorative lion capital Ashoka pillar. The Chaukhandi Stupa stands over the place where Buddha gathered his first sangha.
Pop into the Sarnath Museum where on display are the Sarnath lion capital, adapted as a national symbol of Independent India. It was rescued from the broken Ashoka pillar. Several Buddhist countries have established temples at Sarnath as they have done at Bodhgaya. Time a visit here during the annual Bodhotsav festivities.
Kushinagar
Kusavati of the pre-Buddha period, now known as Kushinagar, is the hallowed place where the Buddha while travelling back home to Kaplivastu (Nepal), fell ill and decided to make a short halt. But unable to carry on he passed away, blessedly attaining maharparnirvana (release from the cycle of rebirth). Pay your respects at the Rambhar Stupa, which stands over the spot where he was cremated in 543 BCE. In time his mortal remains were enshrined in eight stupas. The Mahaparinirvana Temple houses a colossal reclining Buddha in red sandstone (Gupta period), which was unearthed here. Right behind the temple stands the Nirvana Stupa and Chaitya. Buddha Purnima celebrations, attended by thousands of devotees, are marked by prayers and readings from the scriptures. Other spots of interest here are the Chinese Temple, Thai Temple, Matha Kuar Shrine and the Meditation Park.
Lumbini
Today a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Buddha’s birthplace is visited by thousands of Buddhist devotees the world over. The primary sacred stations here are the sacred garden, the Mayadevi temple, the Pashkarni Pond and the Ashoka Pillar and Stupa.
Other Significant Sites
Rajgir
About 80km away from Bodhgaya this monsoon retreat over 12 years for the Buddha and his disciples, provided a wonderful period to meditate and sermonize, recharge, and reassess their activities in promoting the faith amongst the people. Gridhrakuta Hill also offered the ideal environs for the Buddha to reveal the precepts of his Lotus Sutra and the Perfection of Wisdom Sutra. Shrine ruins found here are believed to be those of the Buddha’s meditation hut. The Sattapanni Cave was the venue of the 1st Buddhist Council, organized after the Buddha’s passing to codify the canonical texts of his teachings for the first time.
The Vishwa Shanti Stupa built by the Japanese, can be accessed by ropeway. Venuvan, a bamboo grove close by, was another spot where Buddha would go into retreat. An annual Buddhist festival is also organized at Rajgir.
If you get the time, you can also visit the Maradakukshi Vihara, Jivakamravna Vihara and ruins of Bimbisara’s jail, the Venuvan Vihara and the ruins of the Ajatshatru Fort on the Nalanda Road.
Nalanda
Travel for about another 60 km from Bodhgaya to explore the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Nalanda, ancient Asia’s most iconic academic centre. Excavations are still on to unearth more significant remains from the 13th century raid of Turkish warlord Bakhtiyar Khalji who sacked the university town and scattered and burnt to the ground its famous 5th century library. Today visitors explore the massive Nalanda University Ruins Archaeological Complex with its sprawl of red brick structures, ruined stupas and viharas surrounded by landscaped gardens. These form part of the archaeological remains of a monastic and scholastic institution dating from the 3rd century BCE to the 13th century CE before the sack and abandonment of Nalanda in the 13th century. Today Nalanda remains an inspirational endeavour for modern university establishments in the region such as the Nava Nalanda Mahavihara, Nalanda University, and several others scattered around Asia.
Vaishali
Just 5km away from Rajgir is serene Vaishali, the venue for Lord Buddha’s last sermon. It was also the venue for the Second Buddhist Council. What remains now only are the ruins of a grand complex, featuring a towering Ashoka Pillar, which hosted the assembly of attendees and the Relic Stupa 1 remains of the Buddha enshrined by the Lichhavi princes It was at Vaishali that women were for the first time ordained in the sangha. It is revered also by the Jain community as it is the birthplace of Lord Mahavira, the last Tirthankar, who established the Jain religion.
Sravasti
This monsoon retreat for Buddha and his disciples is located 150km from Lucknow. Sravasti is the place where Buddha is believed to have performed his first miracle to silence his critics. The Jetavana Monastery, awash with shrines, stupas, and monasteries, gets many visitors as does the Anandabodhi Tree, the ruins of Anandakutti and Gandhakuti viharas and the Angulimala stupa.
Kapilvastu/ Piparwah
Drive on to Kapilvastu, near the village of Piparwah in the Terai region, 98 km. north of Gorakhpur, or 150 km from Sravasti. Located on the Indo-Nepal borders in Siddharthnagar of Uttar Pradesh this is the capital of the Shakya clan which Buddha had abandoned at the age of 29 on a quest for spiritual fulfillment. Today, Kapilvastu comprises several villages, mainly Piprahwa, Ganvaria and Salagarh. The Piparwah Stupa houses relics of the Buddha; the ruins of the palace complex, old temples, and residential blocks have been unearthed at nearby Ganvaria. Nigrodharam is where his father King Suddodhana raised a huge vihara to meet the Buddha after his Enlightenment. The Buddha gave his first discourse to his followers, including his wife Yashodhara, and son Rahul. Kapilvastu Archaeological Museum houses several important Buddhist finds from around the district.
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