A Spiritual Expedition in Uttarakhand

The Chaar Dhaam Yatra is one of the most revered pilgrimage journeys in India, especially for Hindus. It takes pilgrims to the four sacred temples in Uttarakhand, nestled amidst the majestic Himalayas. These four temples — Yamunotri, Gangotri, Kedarnath, and Badrinath — are collectively known as the Chaar Dhaam and are considered highly significant for spiritual seekers and devotees

. Yamunotri

• Location: In the western Garhwal Himalayas, near the town of Uttarkashi.
• Significance: Dedicated to Goddess Yamuna, the river goddess, it is believed that taking a dip in the river here will purify one’s soul. The temple is located at the foot of the Bandarpunch Peak, and it is the starting point of the Chaar Dhaam Yatra.
• Highlights: Pilgrims often take a holy dip in the Yamunotri Kund (hot spring) before proceeding to offer prayers at the temple.

Gangotri

• Location: In the Uttarkashi district of Uttarakhand, at the source of the River Ganges.
• Significance: The Gangotri temple is dedicated to Goddess Ganga. The river Ganges is said to have descended to Earth at this location, making it a significant pilgrimage site.
• Highlights: Pilgrims visit the Ganges Glacier, where the river originates, and pay homage at the temple, which stands on the banks of the river.

Kedarnath

• Location: In the Kedarnath range of the Himalayas, near the Mandakini River.
• Significance: Kedarnath is one of the 12 Jyotirlingas of Lord Shiva. This temple is known for its serene and breathtaking beauty, surrounded by snow-capped peaks and lush valleys. The journey to Kedarnath is physically demanding but rewarding in terms of spirituality.
• Highlights: Pilgrims trek to Kedarnath (or take a helicopter) and offer prayers at the ancient temple, dedicated to Lord Shiva.

 Badrinath

• Location: In the Chamoli district of Uttarakhand, at the banks of the Alaknanda River.
• Significance: This temple is dedicated to Lord Vishnu and is situated at an altitude of 3,133 meters. Badrinath is part of the 108 Divya Desams (sacred shrines of Lord Vishnu) and holds immense significance for Hindus.
• Highlights: Pilgrims offer prayers at the temple, which is surrounded by stunning landscapes and is considered one of the most important places of worship in India.

Chaar Dhaam Yatra – The Journey

The Chaar Dhaam Yatra typically starts from Haridwar or Rishikesh and proceeds through scenic routes to each of the four temples. The pilgrimage offers a blend of physical challenge, spiritual fulfillment, and a deep connection with nature. The yatra is often done by road, though there are trekking routes to some of the temples, especially Kedarnath.

Best Time to Visit

• The Chaar Dhaam Yatra is best undertaken between May and October, as the temples are closed during the winter months (November to April) due to heavy snowfall and extreme weather conditions in the region.
• The peak pilgrimage season is during the summer months, particularly around May-June and September-October, when the weather is most favorable for travel.

Spiritual Significance

• Undertaking the Chaar Dhaam Yatra is considered a path to spiritual purification and salvation.
• It is believed that a visit to these holy places washes away one’s sins and grants eternal peace and blessings.
• Many pilgrims undertake the yatra as a form of penance or to fulfill vows.

Modern Day Yatra

• Today, the Chaar Dhaam Yatra is organized by various tour operators and offers a range of transportation options, including bus, car, helicopter rides, and trekking services.
• The government of Uttarakhand has also made provisions to ensure safety and ease of travel, particularly for those undertaking the more challenging treks.

The Chaar Dhaam Yatra is not just a physical journey but a deeply spiritual experience that connects one to the divine and the natural beauty of the Himalayas. It’s an opportunity to seek divine blessings and rejuvenate one’s spirit amidst the serenity of nature.

One of the most accessible yatras in India is also one of the most arduous. On the way to Yamunotri, traditionally the first destination, the sacred Yamuna accompanies yatris up to her source through the spectacularly scenic Rawaai Ghati, leaving us breathless not just because of the altitude. Nothing prepares us for the stun-ning setting of Gangotri, our next dham, which overlooks the tumul tuous River Bhagirathi. We then descend to Kedarnath for an uplifting walk in floating clouds as snowy peaks tower beyond stark mountain faces. Finally, we pay homage to Vishnu at Badrinath, where the lord meditates by the banks of the Alaknanda. On these four different journeys, Dev Bhoomi, the sacred Himalayas, welcomes mere mortals for a jour-ney to the heavens.

MONTH PLANNING THE PILGRIMAGE

Services and infrastructure, limited to only the summer months, are adequate but not luxurious. At Kedarnath and Yamunotri, pilgrims have to trek the last stretch to the temples. The high altitudes of Yamunotri, Gaumukh (see p227), Gangotri and Kedarnath may cause breathing problems in some people, who must avoid staying overnight. Asthma patients must keep inhalers handy. Heart patients should not attempt the walk. Even fit pilgrims are susceptible to the life-threatening Acute Mountain Sickness at these heights, for which the only treatment is to descend. Carry adequate wool-Jens, including blankets.

Travel Operators

Various operators of Delhi Dehradun Haridwar and Rishikesh provides standard packages for the Char Dham Yatra. For a round trip of all the Chaar dhams, a trip by taxi will typically have a 9-night schedule, and one by shared bus will have an 11-night schedule, ex-Rishikesh. However, if one wishes to truly enjoy the experience of the pilgrimage and visit other places of interest, a 15-20-day itinerary is ideal.

YAMUNOTRI

High up in a deep cleft on the western face of Banderpoonch Peak is Yamunotri, traditionally the first destination on the yatra. The pictu-resque journey to the dham is along the River Yamuna itself. The Yamuna Valley, called Rawaai Ghaati, is spectacular.

The main temple at Yamunotri is dedicated to Goddess Yamuna, rep-resented by a black marble idol. The other deity is a white image of Goddess Ganga. Just outside the main temple is the Divya Shila, a dark rock from which springs a stream of hot water. This is the origin of the Yamuna, the most holy area, and pilgrims offer puja here first. Technically, the cold

Best Month

When to go The yatra season extends from May to October. The exact dates of the temples’ opening and closing are determined according to the Hindu lunar calendar (refer to season under each dham). May-June witness the greatest rush. Monsoon (July-August) is difficult because of landslides and road closures

Tourist offices

GMVN Yatra Office, Shail Vihar Haridwar Bypass Road, Rishikesh Tel: 0135-2431783/93, 2430799, 2435174                                                                                                                                                     GMVN Gangotri. GMVN Kedarnath. GMVN Badrinath. GMVN Yamnotri
Lalta Rao Bridge, Haridwar Tel: 01334-228686, 226430 GMVN Janaki Chatti
Cell: 09568006644 (For Yamunotri)
GMVN Delhi Office
102, Indraprakash Building Barakhamba Road, New Delhi Tel: 011-23326620 Email: delhi@gmvnl.com

YAMUNOTRI & GANGOTRI
Road NH34 begins at Dharasu and goes to Gangotri. From Dharasu, NH134 goes north to Yamunotri, and south to Rishikesh. Taxis and buses go to Gangotri from Rishikesh (Bus Stand Tel: 0135-2430076, 2430008) and Uttar-kashi (Bus Stand Tel: 01374-222154)

REACH TO KEDARNATH
Air Amongst helicopter services, Pawan Hans (Rudraprayag Tel: 011-24615711; pawanhans.co.in)  Dehradun-Phata-Kedarnath leg. Heritage Aviation (Cell: 09811404015, 09833907291; heritageaviation.in) offers a 4N/5D package for the Dehradun-Phata-Char Dham leg at 1,55,000 per head Road There is no road to Kedarnath. A trekking trail from Gaurikund (14km/4hrs, one way) is accessed from the Delhi-Badrinath stretch on NH34 and NH7. In season, buses go to Gaurikund from Rishikesh

REACH TO BADRINATH

Road Badrinath is the terminus of the 538-km Delhi-Badrinath stretch on NH34 and NH7. At Rishikesh, NH7 goes north to Badrinath. In season, buses go to Badrinath from Rishikesh

A gate at Joshimath for managing traffic is open from 6.00am-4.00pm every two hours.
stream source of the river is on the Champasar Glacier, near the Saptarishi Kund, a trek of 1km above the Yamunotri shrine. But it is a tough trek not accessible to the average yatri.

Pilgrims take a dip in the hot waters of the Taptkund next to the main temple, which gets its water from the Suryakund nearby. It is believed that a bath in the waters of Yamunotri protects devotees from akaalmrityu (untimely death) and leads to moksha. Then, before visiting the main temple, puja is offered at the Divya Shila. After this, a small amount of rice and potatoes is cooked in the Suryakund, offered to Goddess Yamuna, and returned to the pilgrim as prasad. Devotees carry water from Yamunotri to offer to Lord Krishna during Janmashtami, for Yamuna was one of Krishna’s eight queens. When the temple closes in winter, the deity is taken to the winter seat at Kharsali (2km from Janki Chatti).

• Timings 6.00am-8.00pm Aarti timings 6.30am and 7.30pm Season The temple opens on Akshay Tritiya (May) and closes on Yama Dwitiya, or Bhai Duj, the second day after Diwali (November)

Yamunotri

The popular Hanuman Mandir Dharamshala is run by Rambharose Das aka Nepali Baba. It has  rooms  Kali Kamli Dha ramshala (Kolkata Tel: 033-22686701, 22318181; Rishikesh Tel: 0135-2430 006) has eight rooms. Pilgrims on the last stretch from Janaki Chatti to Yamunotri
In Barkot (44km before Yamunotri) The GMVN Barkot (Tel: 01375-224236, Cell: 09568006613) offers good accommodation options here. The Old Tourist Rest House (Tariff: ₹1,020) offers 10 rooms and a restaurant. The Barkot Annexe (Tariff: ₹1,650) offers four rooms. Meals here are arranged from the TRH. The rooms are neat and clean, with attached bathrooms. GMVN also has four dorms at Janta Yatri Niwas (Tariff: 210 per bed). It has a restaurant. Hotel Devbhoomi (Cell: 08171754463; Tariff: ₹1,200-5,000) on Yamunotri Road has 14 good rooms, a suite and a restaurant. Chardham Camp (Delhi Tel: 011-46520000; Tariff: ₹8,000-11,000, with meals), just outside Barkot, offers luxurious tented accommodation.

Camp Nirvana (Cell: 09456529074; Tariff: ₹3,000), on the main highway, also offers luxurious Swiss tents with attached bath. Vegetarian food is served. Karan Palace (Cell: 094121 40235; Tariff: ₹600-1,000) is another option on Yamunotri Road, offering rooms, suites and a restaurant.

Sayana Chatti (14km) Hotel Kalindi (Cell: 09412140031; Tariff: ₹2,500-2,700) has 17 rooms and a restaurant. Hotel Himalaya (Cell: 09412946905; Tariff: ₹800-1,100), in the market, has 29 rooms. The GMVN (Cell: 095680 06644; Tariff: 1,568-2,240) here has nine rooms. Bhaghirathi Palace (Cell: 09411397324; Tariff: ₹800) offers eight rooms. Many eateries around the bus stand offer Gujarati food.

Janaki Chatti (7km)

Hotel Atithi Niwas (Cell: 094121 40031) is the best option here, with rooms and a restaurant. The GMVN (Cell: 09568006644), with  rooms, is reached by a 1-km walk. There are rooms in the Annexe
For more Accommodation availble in Barkot, Janaki Chatti and Sayana Chatti.

GANGOTRI

The Gangotri shrine overlooks the thundering River Bhagirathi. It is the spiritual source of the Ganga, known as Bhagirathi after King Bhagirath, who performed a penance to bring her down from the heavens.
River Ganga flowing past Gangotri town
It is believed that bathing in ber waters brings deliverance from sin committed in the present and pa births. Hence, Hindus perform the ancestral rites of shraadh and pond daan for their ancestors here. The actual source of the river is the be cave of Gaumukh.

Apart from Goddess Gang Annapurna, Mahadurga Yamuna, Shankar and Saraswati are also wor shipped here. On reaching the shrine, pilgrims offer prayers at the temple and bathe in the main ghat. Water is collected for use during auspicious occasions. Also, Ganga jal from Gangotri is traditionally offered at Kedarnath and Rameswaram in Tamil Nadu. Nearby is the Bhagirath Shila, a stone slab where King Bhagirath meditated.

Timings 6.15am-2.00pm, 3.00-9.30pm (summer); 6.45am-2.00pm. 3.00-7.00pm (as winter approaches)

Aarti timings Sandhya aarti at 7.45pm (7.00pm in winter) Season As at Yamunotri

Devotees also stop at Gangnani (en route to Gangotri), where Parashar Muni used to have his ashram, to bathe in the hot water springs there.

WHERE TO STAY AND EAT

In Gangotri

The GMVN Tourist Rest House located 100m away from the temple The Great Ganga and Bhagirathi Sadan are nice and clean, and located close to the main shrine. In fact, one can even view the aarti in the temple from the balconies of these hotels. A number of ashrams are on the other side of the river. There are also three well-equipped Forest Rest Houses here.

In Harsil (28km before Gangotri) Harsil Retreat  offers eight cottages, jungle walks, treks and picnics. The Chardham Camp (Delhi Tel: 011-46520000; Tariff: 29,500-12,500) here has luxury tents. There’s also a GMVN Tourist Rest House (Tel: 013773-232210; Tariff: 1,904-2,789), withrooms and a restaurant, and a two-room Forest Rest House here.

In Dharali (25km before Gangotri) Hotel Springdales  is located opposite a waterfall. Prakriti – The Retreat (Dehradun Tel: 0135-2715 189/27) offers comfortable rooms and good food.

KEDARNATH

The northernmost Jyotirlinga and third stop in the Char Dham Yatra is located at 11,746ft, close to the source of the holy River Mandakini. From Gaurikund, the roadhead, Kedarnath is a 14-km trek northward along the Mandakini, a steady ascent along a paved path through a thick forest. It

PILGRIMAGES
is steep until Garur Chatti, after which the path levels out until Kedar nath. One can spot the snow-covered Sumeru Peak, the backdrop of the Kedarnath Temple, en route.
At the shrine, pilgrims offer butter and ghee to the Jyotirlinga and embrace it, touching it with their forehead. They even offer silver plated bilva patras to the lord. Holy water from Gangotri is also offered. Bhog is offered by the priests at 4.00pm.
Timings 6.00am-2.00pm, 5.00-8.00pm Aarti timings 6.45pm (Shringar Darshan 5.00pm onwards)

Best Season Same as Yamunotri is April to July

Places to see en route Pilgrims generally take a bath at the hot springs in Gaurikund before

Kedarnath Temple

Proceeding for Kedarnath. Parvati is said to have attained Lord Shiva at this spot. About 62km southeast of Kedarnath, towards Badrinath, is Ukhimath, where Krishna’s great. grandson Aniruddha got married to Usha, daughter of Vanasur. The deities of the Kedarnath Temple are installed here after it’s closed during winter. Guptkashi, 45km south, has temples dedicated to Ardhanarishwar and Vishwanath.

In Kedarnath
GMVN Kedarnath . Nandi Base Camp Complex, at Kedar Dome having tents near the helipad and its surrounding areas. Punjab Sindh Awas is the best guesthouse here.

In Guptkashi (32km before Kedarnath)
GMVN hasrooms, four huts and\ dorms. The Chardham Camp (Delhi Tel: 011-46520000: offers luxu-rious comforts. Camp Nirvana (Delhi Tel: 011-46107224;) cat book the helicopter darshan, and offers rooms and tents, and adventure sports. Mrityunjaya Palace Hotel (Cell: 09012537543; )

PILGRIMAGES
offers eight rooms, a canteen and helicopter darshan bookings.

In Gaurikund (14km before Kedarnath)

GMVN is the best place to stay, with clean rooms. The temple committee guesthouse was under construction at the time of research. There are a few basic hotels in Gaurikund..
By the banks of the River Alaknanda is Badrinath at 10,276ft. According to legend, Lord Vishnu himself meditated here, while his consort Lakshmi took the form of a berry (badri) tree to offer him shade. Narad, his main devotee, also stayed here. Devotees offer pind daan for their ancestors at the holy Brahma Kapal Tirth on the banks of the Alaknanda, just outside the gate of the Badrinath Temple. Facing the temple is a hot water spring known as Taptkund, a bath in which is refreshing.

Timings 4.00am-noon, 3.00-9.00pm Season April/May October/November to

Leather items must be left outside the Badrinath Temple.

While in Badrinath

Joshimath (48km) is the seat of Adi Shankaracharya. It has a temple of Narsingha as well. Nearby is the Shankaracharya Cave, where the saint is believed to have attained enlightenment. Pandukeshwar, the winter seat of Badrinath, is about 20km away.

WHERE TO STAY AND EAT

Sarovar Portico Badrinath . Chardham Camp offers luxury tents. Hotel Dwarikesh offers rooms and darshan on demand. Narayan Palace has rooms. GMVN Devlok ( is one of the three GMVNs here.

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