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Enduring Imperial Expressions
The epic battle of Panipat which proved to be the Waterloo of Ibrahim Lodi of the Delhi Sultanate, gave wing to the ambitions of Babur, the descendent of the Central Asian warlord Genghis Khan, to establish his rule in Hindustan in the 16th century. Rather than use Delhi as his base Babur opted to make Agra the bastion of the fledgling Mughal Empire. The energy that his descendants poured into expanding the Mughal dominion resulted in 200 years of Mughal rule in India. The weakness of the last of the Mughal kings resulted in the empire being elbowed away by the bristling ambitions of the English.
The imperial posturing of the Mughal rule are reflected in a host of monuments and cultural moorings embedded in Agra. For the history and culture buff the clamorous vibe of the city adds its charm to its vintage offerings. Most itineraries are centered around the magnificent Taj Mahl, a UNESCO-acclaimed World Heritage Site and architectural marvel. This globally renowned “Monument of Love” is a supreme subject for many Insta and selfie moments.
Reconstructed by Emperor Akbar, the imposing Agra Fort, which is reflective of the military might of the Mughals, also offers visitors poignant moments to ponder over. It is here that Emperor Shah Jahan was incarcerated by his overly ambitious son Aurangzeb. Not only did Aurangzeb hunt down his brother the Sufi poet prince Darah Shikho, but he had no qualms about letting his imperious father dwindle into a shadow of himself, weeping and sighing over his beloved Mumtaz Mahal and the loss of his empire to an ingrate of a son. He was held captive here from July 1658 until his death in January 1666. A UNESCO World Heritage Site Red Fort’s colossal walls serve as a protective barrier from vandals for the exquisite Pearl Mosque (Moti Masjid) the magnificent Jahangiri Mahal, the stunning Khas Mahal, the Diwan-i-Khas and the Muthammam Burj, from the veranda of which the imprisoned Shah Jahan would look towards the Taj in anguish, no longer moved by those grandstand views of the legendary Yamuna River.
Some of the gardens worth a visit are the Akbari Bagh and the Mehtab Bagh, located across the river Yamuna which offers the best views of the Taj at sunset. Visitors in the know look forward to viewings of the Taj around Sharad Purnima in October to witness a phenomenon known as ‘chamki’. This takes place when the full moon reaches an angle from where the full force of the moonlight falls upon the marble façade of the Taj to create a mirage of flickering lights.
A guided hop-on-hop-off rickshaw ride is an excellent way to explore the nooks and crannies of Mughal Agra. Reflective moments can be spent at Dara Shikoh’s library. The eldest son of Mughal Shah Jahan was a scholar of Persian, Urdu, and Sanskrit and loved the Sufi ways. Other places to hop off are the wish-fulfilling Shiva temple known as the Mankameshwar Temple. The Radha Soami headquarters is located at Dayal Bagh. Reminders of Agra’s Raj-era connections are linked to several churches, but what will surprise you is that the Akbar Church was commissioned by the Mughal emperor Akbar as a gift to the Jesuit Fathers. Other reminders of the rule of the British when Agra served as the bustling hub for the province include Havelock Memorial Church, the Post Office, St. Mary’s Church, Queen Empress Mary Library, Telegraph Office, and St George’s Cathedral and the bbungalows in the Cantonment area.
Kinari Bazaar, Lohar Gali and the spice street of Rawat Para are just some of the more popular allurements. You can swing by the 15th-century markets, gaze upon buildings that still carry traces of Indo-Islamic architectural nuances, and shop for souvenirs reflective of the city’s old crafting practices ranging from Pacchikari or stone inlay work to Mughal miniatures, from Zardozi work to handcrafted carpets and leather goods.
Delving into Agra’s culinary delights opens up a whole new window to local life. Tuck into samplings favoured dishes from the Braj region, enjoy Mughal specialties at some of the swanky hotels, and pick up Agra’s famous petha for family and friends back home. Seasonal offerings bring their own stories to local foodie hubs. Street food staples including gol gappas, aloo tikki, papdi chaat, dahibhalla, pav bhaji, samosas, kachoris, are irresistible.
EXCURSIONS
Fatehpur Sikri
Just 40km away from Agra lies Akbar’s abandoned capital of Fatehpur Sikri. A stunning complex collection of red sandstone structures, the ruined city still holds you in thrall for its exquisite stone carvings and architectural marvels. It’s no surprise that the world can still enjoy its fantastic offerings, protected down the decades under the umbrella of a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Tomb of Itmad-ud-Daulah
An unmissable wonder for its intricate design works, Pacchikari embellishments, and superb architectural lines, you can witness the energy and love that Queen Noorjehan poured into this last resting place of her father. Its serene Char Bagh setting on the left bank of Yamuna adjoining the elegant Chini-ka-Rauza the pristine white marble edifice offers a keynote to the traditional Islamic tomb building legacy of Mughal rule in India. Your lens will not tire from the endless pictures it inspires from every angle. It makes for a nice stop en route to Mehtab Bagh.
ACCOMMODATION
Agra City has a vast selection of stay options, from 5-star hotels to guesthouses to match all budgets.
ACCESS
Air: New Delhi’s Indira Gandhi International Airport offers world-class connectivity and services.
Rail: Agra Cantt Railway Station offers excellent connectivity with the rest of the country through its well-oiled integrated rail network Popular trains include the Shatabdi Express and the Taj Express
Road: The city has a good intrastate road network and has excellent connections with Delhi and Jaipur which fall on the touristy Golden Triangle of Delhi -Jaipur Agra
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