A Thrilling, Intriguing Natural Wonder of the World
Welcome to a bizarre world where fish climb trees and crabs fiddle in the safety of their burrows in the mudflats; a place where trees grow underwater and tigers who can easily navigate the dense undergrowth and mudflats live on salty water, climb trees and hunt in the day for even fish, frogs and lizards— and man, considered easy prey!
With Its mighty expanse of over 10,000 km2 across the world’s largest delta land, shaped by the meeting of the Ganga, Hooghly, Padma, Brahmaputra, and Meghna rivers, the Sunderbans is one of the most exciting regions to explore in India.
Not many people are even aware of its existence let alone be privy to the fact that the Sundarbans is the world’s largest mangrove forest ecosystem and one of its most important biosphere reserves. Imagine how this would resonate with climate-conscious travellers the world over! Mangrove forests are even more precious today considering they are fantastic at absorbing and storing carbon from the atmosphere.
Two-thirds of this fascinating natural phenomenon lies in Bangladesh and one-third in India. The Sunderbans, protected as a UNESCO-acclaimed World Heritage Site, is also a critical habitat for India’s Royal Bengal Tiger, a globally endangered species.
The 9630 sqkm Indian part of the Sunderbans is known as the Hooghly – Matla Estuary. Almost 4263sq km of this is Reserved Forest. It is watered by the Matla, Biyadhari, Saptamukhani, Gosabha and Raimongal rivers. This tidal country is perpetually in a state of flux as the diurnal rhythm of the tides changes the face of the mass of creeks and channels with the mighty fusion of the saline sea and the fresh waters of the rivers. Scattered across this maze of rivers, water channels and creeks are about 200 islands. This unique riverine system is the heart of the Sunderbans named for the Sundari tree which grows here bounteously.
A cruise down this mangrove-fringed wetland opens up a world of primordial mores, where the survival of the fittest is a pulsating reality. The mangroves themselves are the primary survivors here, who with their roots buried underwater, have adapted to hot, muddy, salty, oxygen-poor conditions that would be the death of most plants. The bizarre aerial roots (pneumatophores – or respiratory roots) you’ll see sticking out of the mud belong to the endangered Keora tree; the fight for survival is re-enacted in the strangely bent-over posture of the Kankra tree; the Garjan tree’s strong horizontal roots serve offer purchase in the mud, protecting it from cyclonic weather and soil erosion.
Not only has the tiger learned to adapt to this intertidal world’s strange ways, but so have a host of other denizens in this unique salt-water habitat including spotted deer, bears, monkeys, fishing cats, jungle cats, pangolins, and muggers. As you keep your eyes peeled for the elusive tigers from the safety of your boat, enjoy viewings of salt-water crocs sunbathing and Gangetic dolphins cavorting in the channels.
The communities who have made Sunderbans their home have it hard life, while eking out a living from forest products, honey, and wood, while trying to keep themselves safe from predators. The worship of the reigning deity, Bonbibi, has to some degree transcended social barriers here. Locals both Hindu and Muslim pray for her protection before entering the forest. To confuse an approaching tiger some honey collectors and fishermen will wear masks with the face of the forest goddess tied to the back of their heads, to scare away the tiger.
Tourist Trail
The only way to explore this awesome wonderland of the largest tidal mangrove forest is by boat. Ferry boat and launches are available from Canning, Sajnekhali and Namkhana. Both state run and private luxury steamers operate excursions into these waterways. All tours need to be accompanied by guides, available at Sajnekhali and Sonakhali.
Boat Safari Timing: 8:30 am- 4:00 pm.
Note: No boat is allowed inside Sunderban after 6.30 pm. Its best visited in the dry season from November to February.
Sunderbans Tiger Reserve
While the core area of the reserve is off limits you might get lucky spotting a tiger crossing the waterline into the dense jungle in the buffer zone area where the Sajnekhali Wildlife Sanctuary is located.
Sajnekhali Wildlife Sanctuary
Spread across 362.40 sqkm this is the gateway to the Sunderbans Tiger Reserve. Birders will love the wealth of avifaunal delights the area offers. The Mangrove Interpretation Centre here opens up a window to this mysterious wonderland. The sanctuary also features an estuarine crocodile pond, a turtle pond, and a watchtower. The protected 150m Dobanki Canopy Walk terminates at a watchtower. It offers good tiger-spotting opportunities in this area. Another watchtower is located at Sudhanyakhali, where tigers are known to be sighted at the sweetwater waterhole located nearby. The Bonbibi Temple lies close to the sanctuary area.
Lothian Wildlife Sanctuary
Accessible from Namkhana, the sanctuary is set on a small island and offers good opportunities for wildlife spotting. Look for spotted deer, birds, and the playful Gangetic dolphins apart from the estuarine crocodiles.
Bhagabatpur Crocodile Project
The heart of one of the most important conservation programs for estuarine crocodiles the site is located by the Saptamukhi River near the Lothian Wildlife Sanctuary. Hundreds of estuarine crocs have been reared and released into the wild from its hatcheries, since its inception. It can be accessed from Namkhana or Sajnekhali.
Sagar Island
Overlooking the confluence of the Ganga and the Bay of Bengal the island is renowned for its Kapil Muni Temple. This picturesque spot is the venue of the annual Gangasagar Mela
ACCOMMODATION
Tourist lodges, campsites, resorts, and private camps are good options.
ACCESS
Air: Kolkata’s Subhash Chandra International Airport is just 100km away
Rail: Kolkata’s Howrah and Sealdah Railway Stations are the most convenient railheads. Catch a train from Sealdah to Canning (1 ½ hrs) then continue the onward journey by launch to Gosabha and Sajnekhali. Another option is to cross the river at Canning by boat and then take a bus or auto to Sonakhali, the most convenient place to access the Sunderbans Tiger Reserve via the Sajnekhali Wildlife Sanctuary.
Road: Buses ply between Kolkata’s Esplanade Bus Stand and Sonakhali (also to Basanti) daily. You can also go by car.
Water: Motorboats to to Sunderbans can be hired from Namkhana, Sagar Island, Sajnekhali, Sonakhali and Raidighi.